In December I celebrated my first Christmas without my daughter. Okay, celebrated is the wrong word. For a carol singing, Santa hat-wearing, Christmas LOOOOOVING gal, “survived” is probably a more accurate description.
I always knew that after almost seven years as a single mum, and six Christmases with my six-year-old daughter, I would find it tough. So I decided that if I couldn’t celebrate with my daughter, the next best thing would be to take myself on a little rejuvenating vacay.
And so I did some googling and some price comparing and found the perfect spot… Koh Lipe.
Since posting about it on Instagram, and chatting about it a little on my podcast, I have been asked many questions about Koh Lipe and my solo trip there, and in this blog post, I answer the most frequent ones so that if you too are thinking of going to Koh Lipe, hopefully, it helps.
Why did you choose Koh Lipe?
When I was looking at flights departing Sydney on the 24th December and returning on the 31st December (the dates my daughter would be leaving and returning from visiting her dad) Malaysia was a cheap option. That was compared to Bali and Hawaii anyway. Unfortunately my first preference – the Perhentian Islands in Malaysia – were closed due to it being the monsoon period. So I started researching other options, and Langkawi looked great. I thought I had made the decision, but as I researched Langkawi, I stumbled across an article on what to do there, and one of the suggestions was a day trip to the Thai island – Koh Kipe. It was only a one hour and 15-minute ferry ride away. A quick google image search sold me. It looked like paradise. I decided I would go there instead.
How does one get to Koh Lipe from Australia?
When I went, in December 2019, the cheapest and fastest option to get to Koh Lipe was, as mentioned, via Langkawi.
First the flights… I flew Sydney to Kuala Lumpur (about 8.5 hours), and then Kuala Lumpur to Langkawi (just over one hour).
Upon arriving at Langkawi Airport, I suggest going to one of the tour stands and asking when the next Ferry departs to Koh Lipe, and from which Jetty (there are two providing transport to Koh Lipe – Kuah Jetty, and Telaga Harbour Marina). Although you are able to book online, personally I would wait until you arrive in Langkawi, talk to the tour/information staff at the airport and buy the ticket at the jetty.
You will need to prepay for the taxi ride to the jetty (as well as get money out for the taxi ride back). It’s best to ask at the airport how much it costs. At the time that I went, for the taxi to the Telaga Harbour Marina, I needed 20 Malaysian Ringgit (MYR) for each way (around $7AUD). Depending on which ferry you get (prices vary) you will also need about 280 MYR ($100AUD) for the return ferry from Langkawi to Koh Lipe. You can get Thai baht out when you get to Koh Lipe.
What do you have to pay when you arrive at Koh Lipe?
Immigration at Koh Lipe is amusing, to say the least. You will need to hand your passport over before getting on the ferry at Langkawi, so don’t be alarmed. Then, upon arrival at Koh Lipe, it’s a matter of waiting until they call your name and nationality out. You might want to have a book handy… It can take a while.
Once you receive your passport, they will direct you to the office for fingerprinting, and payment. You will need to pay 200 baht (about $10AUD) per person which is a five-day national park entry fee. You are also asked to carry the receipt slip around during your time on the island. They accept cash only, though I believe they accept other currencies. I paid in Malaysian Ringgit. Please note, there is no ATM nearby. You will need cash on you for this payment.
Where is the best place to stay on Koh Lipe?
In terms of where to stay, there are many options. There are three main beaches on the island – Pattaya Beach, Sunset Beach, and Sunrise Beach. Pattaya beach is beautiful but quite busy. It’s also where the majority of the ferries and the snorkelling and diving boats come in and out of. But if you like to party, it’s a great place to stay because at night it’s a celebration of lights, fire twirling, and beach bars.
Sunset beach is also lovely, and probably the quietest of the beaches. Personally, it was my least favourite (though still very beautiful), but there were some good looking places to stay too.
Sunrise beach was my favourite and also where I stayed. It’s the longest of the beaches, and there are many options. At night the beach is fairly quiet, particularly on the northern end. I stayed at the Andaman Resort, and I absolutely loved it. At night the beach is mostly quiet apart from some of the bars which are quite lively further down (such as Sea La Vie).
If beach accommodation is not your thing, there are also many places to stay on Walking Street (and surrounding streets).
Koh Lipe has a really good mix of resorts, bungalows, and hotels. There is something to suit every budget.
Suggestions on what to do on Koh Lipe
Koh Lipe is a pretty relaxed and sleepy island with not too much to do. So if you’re looking for an action-packed holiday, it’s probably not the place for you. But if you’re looking for a place to relax, you’ll love it. Here are some of my top tips.
- Stroll along Walking Street during the day, and at night – two totally different experiences.
- Watch the sunset and have two for one cocktails (between 5 – 8 pm every day) at the Akira Beach Resort Lipe.
- Take an island hopping and snorkelling day trip out to some smaller neighbouring islands.
- If you’re a keen scuba diver #hello, spend a day or morning out diving (it is quite budget-friendly too considering what scuba diving often costs).
- Get a foot massage at one of the many massage places on Walking Street.
- Walk around to see the three main beaches on the island.
- Lie on the beach and read.
- Drink cocktails on the beach.
- Eat coconut ice-cream from one of the little stalls on Walking Street.
- Turn left at the end of Walking Street (not the beach end) and get coconut pancakes from the man with the cart opposite the 711. Very glutinous but oh so yummy.
- Meet new people, dance and drink cocktails after sunset at the Café de Lipe beach bar on Pattaya Beach (right next to the immigration area).
View this post on Instagram
Today, amongst other things, I swung on a rope on a tiny island in Thailand 🇹🇭 #YOLO
Where are the best places to eat on Koh Lipe?
Look, I love food. And it’s important to me to eat at places that I am going to love because when you’re only somewhere for a short time and there are so many food options, every meal counts. Here are my faves…
- Even if you don’t stay at The Andaman, be sure to have lunch there at one of the tables on the beach. Bring a book or a journal too. It is bliss. The prawn pad thai is delicious, but it’s the setting that makes it!
- Island Café on Walking Street– I didn’t eat here but the lovely ladies made me a beautiful ginger tea concoction when I told them about my period pain. The ice-cream looked amazing and according to Trip Advisor, it’s a hidden gem with great but affordable accommodation too.
- Bombay Indian Restaurant – good for an early dinner as the queue to get in later is EPIC. The food is delicious though, and worth the wait. Be sure to try the Naan. To get there, turn left at the end of Walking Street (not the beach end).
- Cafe Tropical on Walking Street is delicious. It’s extremely westernized in a Bondi Beach kind of way but the breakfasts are delicious (smoothie bowls galore). They also have free Wi-Fi.
- Elephant Restaurant is the sister to Cafe Tropical, and even better I think (though maybe not the breakfasts). No free Wi-Fi at this one, but I spent many hours here reading and writing and drinking G&Ts. They also have a cool bar shaped like a longboat and live music in the evenings.
- Made in Italy Italian Restaurant off Walking Street is run by an Italian guy and the food is Bellissimo.
- King Crab Restaurant – It’s Thai and predominately seafood barbequed. OMG, loved it! It”s at the top of the hill on Walking Street. Make sure you sit by a fan; it’s hot.
- Ja Yao Restaurant – delicious Thai food on Walking Street.
Who took your photos?
I got asked this question A LOT during and after my trip. The reality is, if you want photos of yourself (or you and your kids) that are not selfies, you have to ask other people to take them. So that’s what I did, and what I regularly do. Do I feel awkward? Sometimes, but not usually. Remember though, you will never see those people again (they won’t even remember you after an hour) and the photos will last forever. I always make a point of asking other people if they want their photo taken too. It’s really no biggie. Promise.
Were you worried about leaving the country without your daughter?
I was the first time I went on an overseas solo trip (Bali in January 2017). It just felt WRONG. I was petrified that something bad would happen and I wouldn’t be able to be there for my daughter. I was also terrified that something terrible would happen to me. What if someone smuggled drugs into my bag and I ended up in Bali’s Kerobokan Prison Schappelle Corby style? I wouldn’t be there for my daughter’s childhood, or worse, I could get executed and never get to see her again. Absurd, I know. But those were the thoughts that occupied my mind. In fact, I was so worried about it that I truly wasn’t able to enjoy the holiday as much as I could have. I learned after that trip that I really have to push my fears aside and not catastrophise and to make the most of my child-free time. Because I don’t get a lot of it. So this time in Koh Lipe? I soaked in all the me-time and loved every minute.
How long should I stay?
I stayed for 6 days which was lovely. I think an extra day or two would have been perfect, but hey, I’m not complaining.
Anything else to note?
Two VIPs (very important pointers)…
- When you get cash out at the ATM, make sure you retrieve your card when you have finished your transaction. I literally lost my bank card within 30 minutes of arriving on the island. I blame the slow machine, and the fact there was no beep to prompt you to remove the card prior to the money coming out. You have been warned.
- Allow for plenty of extra time when leaving Koh Lipe to head back to Langkawi. Next time, I’ll take the lunchtime ferry back for an evening flight instead of the afternoon ferry. Our ferry was delayed by an hour (which apparently was lucky as it can be much longer) and it meant that I only *just* made my flight and that was with me clearing traffic and being lucky enough to have a taxi driver who zoomed through the streets Amazing Race style. I even broke a thong in the running with a suitcase process. That’s a shoe for you non-Aussies, thank you.
Whilst this has been written in mind for the solo traveller, Koh Lipe is a great place for kids too. Whilst it doesn’t boast an abundance of kids clubs or nannies like Fiji or Bali, kids will be able to enjoy the same activities as you and have a little insight into some Thai culture. I will definitely take my daughter here someday.
That’s it! I highly recommend you go. And have the best time!
*HOT TIP: you might know that I have been doing the $1000 project since last year (you can find out more about that in Episode 155 – my chat with Canna Campbell), and so I highly encourage you to book accommodation through a platform like Cashrewards that offers a cashback on sites like booking.com and Agoda etc. To kick start your own $1000 project, you can sign up using my referral link here, and we’ll both get $5.
P.S DID YOU KNOW?
Thrive Tribe – the global membership experience for single mothers – will be opening again soon. Join the waitlist here.
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